When her collection was featured in a New York Times advertisement, her boss at her day job found out and fired her on the spot. Sui took her $300 in savings and devoted herself to her own line, working from the corner of her apartment for several years. Sui’s aesthetic veered toward more alternative grunge looks despite the trend at the time of “power dressing” dominated by big fashion houses Chanel, Versace, and Lacroix.
By the late 80s, Sui and other alternative designers like Marc Jacobs, Daryl K, and Todd Oldham, had managed to gain a global cult following. Her style is remarkable for its playfulness, lightheartedness, and contemporary mix of vintage and cultural arcana. Since the late 90s, her brand has expanded to include several product lines, and she has been involved in several collaboration projects.